The Evolution of AHA Skincare: From 1993 to Today

From the Desk of Dr. Ciraldo

AHA Firming & Brightening Crème is so much more than just another anti-aging moisturizer we've added to our line. On a personal note, it's become something close to a miracle in my own routine — in just six weeks, it visibly smoothed and evened the texture of my 73-year-old décolletage. So when I tell you I noticed a real difference, I mean it both as a dermatologist and as someone who's spent four decades studying what actually works. 

But this crème is more than a new favorite. It's the modern version of the very first moisturizer I ever formulated — the one and only moisturizer we offered when I launched Cosmedical in 1993. 

AHA Moisture, Then 

In the 1990s, the benefits of Glycolic Acid were just being recognized, and that recognition truly gave birth to the concept of cosmeceuticals. As dermatologists, we'd long been performing 35% to 70% glycolic peels in our offices, with real improvement across a range of skin concerns — from acne to photoaging. Then research out of Temple University's Dermatology Department showed that daily, long-term use of an at-home 5% (or greater) glycolic formula could deliver comparable results. That research changed how I thought about what belonged in a daily routine, not just an office visit. So I formulated a 15% glycolic cream and called it AHA Marine Moisture Crème, incorporating peptides — an ingredient that had also just arrived in the cosmeceutical marketplace at the time. 

AHA Moisture, Now 

Experience is the very best teacher, and 43 years of cosmetic dermatology practice have taught me as much — maybe more — than all the diligence I've kept in the formulation lab. 

So what awaits practices that bring AHA Firming & Brightening Crème into their regimens? For one, the Glycolic Acid is now formulated at 10%, making it far more tolerable for nearly every skin type, with the exception of post-procedure, rosacea, and sensitive skin. Paired with a boost of Marine Peptides, the anti-aging and firming benefits are comparable to the original formula — but because tolerability is so much better, I've found that consistent use actually helps surpass those results. 

Why I'm Especially Excited About the Marine Peptides 

If there's one ingredient in this formula I'd ask my colleagues to pay closer attention to, it's the Marine Peptides. This bio-engineered active, derived from a Red Marine Algae found along the intertidal shores of Hawaii, is exactly the kind of ingredient I've watched skincare move toward over the past several years — and for good reason. Studies showed a 33% reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and a 20% improvement in visible firmness after just one month of daily use, plus an immediate soothing effect that measurably calmed sensitized skin in as little as 30 minutes. 

In this formula, the Marine Peptides do something I consider essential: they move in right behind the Glycolic Acid to rebuild moisture and firmness while actively soothing the skin the exfoliation just worked on. It's the reason I can confidently recommend a real, active concentration of Glycolic Acid without asking a patient's skin to trade comfort for results — and it's a big part of why I noticed a difference on my own skin as quickly as I did. 

The crème also introduces something genuinely new to this formula: a six-active Brightening Complex — the one truly new ingredient technology in this reformulation, and something that wasn't part of the original 1993 cream at all. Built on PHA (Lactobionic Acid), Tranexamic Acid, and Mandelic Acid — acids I've long relied on in-office — it proves highly effective improving the appearance of dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 

How I Recommend Incorporating It Into a Regimen 

(Also see our updated Better Together tables.) 

For patients seeking more visible improvement in firming and brightening, I recommend either cycling AHA Firming & Brightening with Ultra Benefits® or using AHA Firming & Brightening in the evening and Ultra Benefits® in the morning. 

What Not to Do 

Don't use this product at the same time as Glycolic Gel, Vita-B Enzyme Polish, or Advanced Retinol. Do always pair it with SPF in the morning — even if you're only applying AHA Firming & Brightening in the evening. 

In Summary 

AHA Firming & Brightening Crème is the product I set out to create when I first formulated a glycolic cream back in 1993 — only now, it does the job better. 10% Glycolic Acid delivers real, visible resurfacing. Marine Peptides restore moisture and firmness while soothing skin through the process. And a brand-new six-active Brightening Complex, the one truly new technology in this formula, supports a more even, luminous tone. Together, they've earned a permanent place in my own routine — and I believe they'll earn one in your patients' routines, too. 

Ready to Bring It Into Your Practice? 

Contact your Practice Development Specialist to add AHA Firming & Brightening Crème to your line, or visit cosmedical.co to learn more.